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The Shackleton Expedition: Points of Interest

Zegrahm Expeditions, July 1999

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Zegrahm Expedition passengers have had and will continue to have unique opportunities to visit historic sites from Shackleton's ill-fated Antarctic expedition of 1914 - 1916. Not only do we experience the island's incredible scenery and spectacular wildlife, but we make pilgrimages to the following sites connected with the Shackleton saga:

Grytviken
This abandoned whaling station in King Edward Cove, a protected arm of Cumberland Bay on South Georgia's east coast, is home to the ghosts of many an adventurous soul. Hundreds of men toiled among the carcasses of the Antarctic's great whales for 60 odd years, reaping profits and facing dangers never dreamed possible in their homelands. After spending a month taking in the knowledge and advice of Antarctic whalers, Sir Ernest Shackleton and his 27 men departed Grytviken on December 5, 1914 for an unprecedented attempt to cross the Antarctic continent. Years later, after safely returning with all hands from the failed crossing and epic journey of survival, Shackleton returned to South Georgia on another expedition. He was accompanied by several men from the Endurance, among them Frank Wild and Alec Macklin. Sadly, on January 5, 1922, the Boss died at Grytviken onboard the Quest in the presence of his friends. The world bid a great hero good-bye.

Expeditions Highlights: At Grytviken, we will explore the ruins of whaling's heyday, investigating old buildings and machinery with our naturalists or learning of the station's history and island ecology at the South Georgia Museum. We'll hike into rocky valleys above the restored Whalers' Church for a bird's-eye view of King Edward Cove and Maiviken. And we will pay homage to one of the world's greatest leaders and explorers - the Boss.

King Haakon Bay
Having miraculously survived a torturous, 17-day journey in a small open boat from Elephant Island to South Georgia Island, Shackleton and his five companions headed into King Haakon Bay on May 10, 1916. Despite uncharted waters and a jagged reef to maneuver past, Worsley guided the James Caird into the protection of this bay and found a small cove that might offer protection from the elements.

Expeditions Highlights: Our ship will follow the James Caird's route into picturesque King Haakon Bay and head toward Cape Rosa on the bay's southern coastline.

Cape Rosa
Shackleton, Worsley, Crean, McNeish, Vincent, and McCarty arrived at Cape Rosa in a sorry state of health. Their incredibly difficult voyage from Elephant Island in the James Caird, across some of the roughest seas on the planet, finally came to an end on May 10, 1916. Here, among the cliffs of Cape Rosa's headland, the starving men found fresh water and fresh meat in the form of albatross chicks. A shallow cave bearing a curtain of long icicles provided a dry shelter from the island's inclement weather. The men recuperated in this small cove for four days while preparing for the next leg of their journey.

Expeditions Highlights: We will walk on this historic cobble beach at Cape Rosa. A short distance from the landing site we can stand in the cave where Shackleton and his five battered comrades spent their first night on solid ground since shoving off from Elephant Island. We'll hike up through tussock grass to observe nesting giant petrels and albatrosses, perhaps descendants of birds the crew of the James Caird found when they first explored this very site.

Peggotty Camp
On May 15, 1916, Shackleton and his five shipmates launched the newly repaired James Caird from their protected beach at Cape Rosa and sailed further into King Haakon Bay. They chose a new landfall near the head of the bay that came to be called Peggotty Camp. The men would have easier access to South Georgia's interior from this site. Shackleton's only hope for the rescue of his men was to cross this unmapped and unexplored island, and reach help at one of the whaling stations. On May 19, the Boss, Worsley and Crean set out from Peggotty Camp to cross the island; they carried with them provisions for only three days.

Expeditions Highlights: Zodiacs will bring us ashore to where Shackleton and his men set up their last camp. We'll be able to imagine the overturned James Caird, insulated along its edge with tussock grass hummocks, providing shelter for the ragged party of explorers. On a nearby beach we will find bits of wood and debris from decades of ship traffic in the South Atlantic.

Stromness Whaling Station
For Shackleton, Stromness Station was the light at the end of a long, difficult tunnel: ten months of being trapped in the ice onboard the Endurance: four grueling months eking out a living on shifting pack ice; a harrowing week in and out of lifeboats enroute to Elephant Island; an 800-mile journey in the James Caird from there to South Georgia Island, and, finally, an unthinkable crossing of South Georgia's lofty mountain range. After all this, Shackleton, Crean and Worsley finally managed to walk into Stromness Bay on May 20, 1916. The world had all but given them up for dead; they arrived bedraggled but very much alive. When the Station Manager asked who they might be, the Boss replied, "My name is Shackleton." Some of the whalers present later admitted to weeping when they realized the magnitude of what they were witnessing.

Expedition Highlights: At Stromness Station, we will stroll between elephant seals and factory buildings left to the forces of nature since their abandonment in 1961. We will see the Station Manager's house, where Shackleton took his first bath in over 17 months. And we will hike onto the plateau beyond the station, making our way toward the waterfall that proved to be Shackleton's final obstacle in reaching the outside world.

Stromness Bay
On May 20, 1916, only hours after completing a hike across the mountainous terrain of South Georgia Island and walking into Stromness Station with his comrades, Frank Worsley sailed out of Stromness Bay onboard the steam trawler Samson to rescue the three men left behind in King Haakon Bay. Worsley returned with the men on May 22, and the following day he, Crean and Shackleton sailed from Stromness Bay on the Southern Sky toward Elephant Island to find the 22 men left behind at Point Wild. This venture failed, as did two subsequent attempts to reach Elephant Island. Finally Shackleton, onboard the Chilean steamer Yelcho, arrived to find all men alive and thankful for his safe return. A great celebration must have taken place onboard the Yelcho on August 30, 1916!

Expedition Highlights: We will sail into Stromness Bay as our ship approaches Stromness and Leith Whaling Stations. Mountains of folded rock that tower over the bay rise from gravel beaches alive with fur seals, elephant seals, and penguins.