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Realm of the Russian Bear

Lynne Greig, October 2004

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My first voyage to the Russian Far East, in 1998 aboard an expedition vessel, was a revelatory experience. I knew we would see North Pacific wildlife, but I was absolutely unprepared for the variety and multitude. During our first landing we spotted 40 species of birds, including Steller's sea eagles, Far Eastern curlews, yellow-breasted buntings, and other Kamchatkan specialties. At other sites thousands of seabirds wheeled through the air in such numbers as to nearly obscure the soaring volcanoes that dominated the horizon.

Every day brought its share of jaw-dropping sightings--pods of orcas hunting fish, brown bears foraging near the shore, thousands of fur seals and Steller's sea lions hauled out on beaches, otters gliding through kelp, Arctic foxes skulking through long grass. Each new sighting further proclaimed the region's eminence among the wildlife capitals of the world.

The encounters with the peoples of the region proved just as illuminating. Though very sparsely populated, Kamchatka is home to indigenous cultures such as the Koryak. These nomadic reindeer herders, far from the support systems of urban centers and unassimilated into mainstream Russian life, follow the ways of their forbears, unchanged for thousands of years.

Political realities do sometimes impinge upon the native tribes, however. Only three miles separate Big Diomede and Little Diomede Islands, and their inhabitants share cultural and familial ties. Yet, as the larger island lies in Russian waters and the smaller is part of the U.S., the countries' border keeps the islands' inhabitants apart, a poignant reminder that the intangible barriers erected by political differences can prove more insurmountable than easily crossed distance.

This border and the Russian military base on Big Diomede are vestiges of the Cold War. Closed to travelers during that period, the Russian Far East served a strategic purpose, its bases the first line of defense against their Alaskan counterparts. This onceforbidden status grants a region a certain mystique; during my initial exploration of Kamchatka, I continually felt the sense of discovery, of penetrating a long-held secret.

Along with this sensation I felt an incredible optimism--the most unexpected realization I experienced. If the Diomedes are a sobering reminder of political barriers, then the mere act of traveling to Kamchatka is a hopeful reminder of how quickly those barriers can fall. Such a journey was impossible only a few years ago. The rapidity with which Russians and Americans, for so long implacable foes, entered a new era of cooperation and friendship was both amazing and heartening.

These feelings have not faded, even after many subsequent journeys to the Russian Far East. Next June I will have the great pleasure of sharing the wildlife, scenery, humanity--and possible epiphanies--of the region with a new group of Zegrahm travelers on Realm of the Russian Bear.

Over the past few years, we've been leading shipboard explorations of Madagascar and the Seychelles. As travelers on those expeditions can attest, those Indian Ocean islands are superlative natural history destinations replete with fascinating, often highly rare, flora and fauna.

For 2005 we've expanded the scope of our explorations to include landings in the East African countries of Mozambique and Tanzania. We're presenting our Indian Ocean Safari in two parts: Reunion to Zanzibar and Zanzibar to the Seychelles, both aboard Le Ponant.