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Georgia On My Mind

by Lia Oprea, September 2005

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Many people are familiar with the story of Jason and the Argonauts. Yet, how many know Colchis, Jason's destination in his quest for the Golden Fleece, is actually situated in present-day Georgia, a country steeped in legend and myth, ruggedly beautiful, rarely visited by outsiders, and one of the unique destinations offered on our voyage Circumnavigation of the Black Sea.

As an expedition leader for Zegrahm, I had the good luck to be called upon to lead this exciting expedition exploring Turkey, Georgia, Russia, the Crimean Peninsula, the beautiful city of Odessa, Ukraine, the Danube Delta and ancient Greek ruins and Roman mosaics of Romania, and the once Thracian stronghold of Bulgaria.

Our own Black Sea odyssey began and ended in Istanbul. For two weeks, aboard the intimate expedition ship, Le Levant, favorable currents carried us along the coast to explore the countries bordering this vast sea. At the onset of our voyage, we discovered that not one of our intrepid travelers had ever set foot in Georgia. There was an air of curious anticipation onboard as we made our way along the northern coast of Turkey toward Georgia, the mysterious unknown land.

Approaching Georgia's dark-sand beaches near the industrial port of Poti, the view is one of verdant lowland plains sweeping up into the foothills of two stunning Caucasus mountain ranges, snowcapped at the skyline. We struck out from Poti for our inland foray to Kutaisi. Our exploration included a visit to the impressive ruins of the Bagrati Cathedral with an adjoining, partially excavated fortress and royal palace. Next we viewed 16th-century Georgian frescoes housed in the original academy building of the Gelati Monastery and then continued on for what we thought would be a quiet, pleasant lunch of local specialties at a nearby restaurant.

As it turned out, we had underestimated greatly the art, culture, and cuisine of Georgia, and we were in for a surprise, which would prove to be one of the trip's highlights.

During our ride, our local guides hinted at certain Georgian traditions. It became apparent that feasting and folk dance were not just national pastimes, but taken very seriously. When we arrived at the local restaurant in Kutaisi, we found our tables spread with cheeses, fresh vegetables, and fried fish. Once we were seated, the wine began to flow and our hosts brought out courses of shashlik (lamb shish kebab), badrijani (eggplant stuffed with hazelnuts), and the famous Georgian fresh-baked cheese bread, khachapuri, served piping hot.

All of a sudden the doors to the dining room burst open and the sounds of the doli (a two headed Caucasian drum) heralded the arrival of a local dance troupe. We watched entranced as the young men climbed on each others' shoulders to lock forearms and circle wildly for the khorumi, a traditional dance depicting victory in battle. Next, beautifully costumed girls glided gracefully and in perfect unison for the dance of the ajarian. After several more dances and a music performance, the finale amounted to a "dance-off" with each boy demonstrating his particular prowess of leaps and slides, Cossack style, and the ability to dance en pointe (on the tips of their toes)—without the aid of toe shoes.

The dances and music were truly breathtaking. Though there were great rounds of applause as the young troupe took their final bow and left the hall, we found ourselves strangely silent as we gathered our belongings for the ride home.

It was hard to believe we were only in the middle of our adventure. After Georgia we had eight more days of exploration; those days in the lands bordering the Black Sea brought more highlights including a visit to Stalin's former dacha in the Russian spa town of Sochi and a tour of the submarine tunnels and Crimean War battle sites of Balaklava, Ukraine. After a morning's guided tour we were let loose in Odessa, "Pearl of the Black Sea," with its tree-lined boulevards and stunning architecture, easily one of the most beautiful cities in the world. In Romania, a private riverboat ferried us through the winding canals and shallow lakes of the impressive Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve. In Bulgaria we had a full day to explore the archaeological and ethnographic museums of Nesebar, with plenty of time to do some shopping for antiques, crafts, and the beautiful lacework for which the area is renowned.

Though our voyage was complete, we would remember always the dancers of Georgia, who so surprised us with their passion for their art and who offered us a small window into the myriad cultures and strong traditions of the countries of the Black Sea.

Lia will be leading our Circumnavigation of the Black Sea expeditions departing in May, June, and September of 2006. Please contact our office for more details.