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Algeria: First Impressions

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Zegrahm’s first-ever visit by ship to Algeria, during our 2007 Mediterranean Mosaic voyage, called at three ports in this fascinating country. We wanted to share a few of our travelers’ and leader’s first impressions.

Meeting the locals
It is increasingly rare to be a visitor to a place where one’s mere presence is still sufficiently uncommon as to cause a bit of a sensation. This was really brought home to me by three memorable experiences. Descending a steep street, I looked up to notice two young men keeping pace beside me who shyly bade me “Welcome to Algiers” in French before continuing on their way. Later, an elderly woman—with a marvelous face seamed with character—stopped me with an outstretched hand, not to beg but because she wanted to hold mine. She spoke no English or French and my few words of Arabic were inadequate for conversation but she seemed content. In Annaba, three curious young boys joined our tour of the central promenade to practice their handful of English words and just hang out with us. These weren’t isolated occurrences; we were also hosted in a private home, welcomed into the interior of a mosque and Koranic school by a gracious Imam, and greeted pleasantly by passersby everywhere. To the perennial question, “Would you go back?” I would have to excuse myself to pack. –S. Langley

Amazing Djémila
Our visit to Djémila was a personal highlight. The drive from the coast into the rugged mountains, by way of a steep gorge, and onto the high fertile plains put the town into context—that of an agricultural and trading center for the Roman Empire. Built by the Romans as Cuicul, around 100 A.D., as many as 20,000 people may have lived here by the 3rd century. It was renamed Djémila, which means “beautiful” in Arabic, and abandoned in the 5th century. So much of it is intact due to its relative remoteness and the entire area is a World Heritage Site. Huge numbers of giant stones, foundations, and columns still stand, all against a backdrop of rolling green hills. Many mosaics remain on the floors; others are exhibited in the small local museum. Under the bright blue sky the magnificent setting provided abundant photo ops. It was amazing that, except for a few other local visitors, we were the only ones there. –D. Norberg

A walk through the Casbah of Algiers
We began our adventure at the top of the hill above the Casbah, an area of narrow winding streets packed with brightly whitewashed homes and businesses. As we walked through the maze of alleyways we happened upon small communal faucets decorated with beautiful tiles where children were drinking water and washing up. As we neared the market, I had a delightful conversation with a local woman who was very curious to learn where we were all from, as well as why we had come to Algiers. Her English was remarkably good and it was wonderful to have this exchange with a local. We also visited a private home—a chance to see the typical architecture and lifestyle. It was a great day and we all wished we could do it again. –S. Gerstung

Travel to Algeria on our North Africa’s Roman Legacy voyages aboard the Wind Spirit in April 2008.